碛口风景名胜区

作为一个吕梁人，怎么能不去碛口呢，那里有古朴的建筑，奔腾的黄河，淳朴的村民，宁静的午后，还有美味的鱼儿，走在古朴的巷子里体验这里独有的风情

这里是黄河山陕边界的重要支点，是历史上当地的经商要地；这里建筑都有数百年历史，为石头和窑洞式建筑；这里出门即是黄河，晚上听黄河滔滔水声入睡；入住窑洞夜望星空。。。

发表了博文 《碛口风景名胜区》 - 碛口位于临县城南48公里的处的黄河边，因黄河第二大碛——大同碛得名。碛口从清代乾隆年间兴起，此后200余年是中国北方著名的商贸重镇。民间有“驮不尽的碛口，填不满的

行程一两天，可以自驾游。如果开车不方便，自助游也很好，碛口和太原之间每天都有大巴车来往，路上也只要4个多小时就够了。在碛口可以实实在在的看见什么是黄土人家，你甚至会惊叹：原来这里也可以有人家。去李家山的时候就会有一种“柳暗花明又一村”的感觉，原本只是一两户人家，转个弯你会看见从山顶到山脚都是窑洞。黄河壁画也很值得一看，看看经过风和水侵蚀过的黄河壁，还可以下船，在黄河中的沙滩上走一走。只是快艇的收费比较贵，一只艇300元，如果人多的话，会比较划算。在碛口一定要尝尝当地的特色，莜面、炒不烂、碗秃、沾荤呃、过油肉，味道不错哦~~

几年前了，五一休假。自驾去碛口。路过吕梁。喜欢，景色很天然，山上枣树刚刚发芽。那才叫“萌”。好像没什么有组织的名胜区，游的就是乡土民风。

当初去碛口，已是去年的4月。当时跟随老师去碛口做地质调查。老师告诉我，这里曾是很重要的交通中转站，以往是非常繁华的。

这里的建筑是纯粹的中国古风，在古时候是一个贸易重镇，所有通过黄河水运的货物都要经过这里，现在还依稀能看到那时候的繁华的影子，是很乡土的那种风格，但是饭在我看来不很好吃，有的都作的不地道了

古镇座落于黄河中游、湫水河口。去的时候是冬天，居然在晴好的天气下黄河被天空映衬出一些蓝色。碛口客栈也许是当地最好旅馆，有两个露台，天气不冷的时候喝茶看黄河会非常惬意。无论是往北眺望还是往南眺望，都是连绵的山夹着黄河，望不见尽头。小镇的古街非常沧桑，很多古店铺已经被废弃，但从铭牌上依稀能见曾经的辉煌。春节期间看到了很多当地人穿民俗服装跳舞，不知道是不是秧歌，很是热闹。游客较少，可以享受别与旅游区的安静。

今年春节去了趟山西的碛口古镇，因为是冬季，游客不多，正好给了我详细参观的机会。原始的村庄面貌留给了我极深刻的印象。如有机会，一定再次慢慢品味。

去年十一过后去的山西，在太原坐长途车5-6个小时可以到达碛口（司机真是开的很猛）。到时已经是黄昏，看了看黄河水，在一个老人的摊儿上吃了碗托，然后就入住了一家叫碛口客栈，看着很有古韵的旅店，因为刚过了黄金周，所以给我们的价钱很便宜，双人间120左右。房间是一个大窑洞，装修和普通的旅店没有多少区别。晚上吃的旅馆做的山西菜也不是很贵。晚上在古镇的街道里走了走，在一家制作木梳的小店里买了两把木梳，让店家在上面刻了想刻的字就回去了，因为古镇街道没有灯，在晚上出行很不方便。夜里枕着黄河的涛声入眠了~ 第二天去了李家山，黑龙寺几个景点，总体来说碛口给人一种凄凉落魄的感觉，曾经繁华的贸易往来之地，现在已是少见人烟的漠城。在喧嚣的城市生活太久到这里来体验静寂的古镇也是不错的。 每天早上6点左右有一辆大巴回太原（还是那个司机。）

碛口，首先要说说古镇，碛口曾经是清代中国北方著名的贸易重镇，所以整个古镇有着明显的清代传统建筑风格，古店铺林立，均依山势而建，很有古朴的风格。碛口周围的村镇比如李家山，西湾都有着非常典型的建筑风格。古镇上比较特色的宾馆比如碛口客栈，黄河宾馆，价格都不贵，住宿却很特色。然后再说大同碛，碛， 水中沙也。黄河进入大同碛，河面急剧收缩，据说在涨水季节水势十分浩大骇人。大同碛距离碛口古镇很近，走路过去就可以了，我去的时候正是端午，水面很平静，不过清晨的光线很美丽。碛口就在黄河边，距离碛口20公里的黄河段，有处景观叫做黄河画廊，千百年来，由于黄河水的冲刷，沿岸的崖壁被雕刻成美丽的画卷。这里可以包船在黄河上欣赏沿岸石壁景观，记得好像是400一条船，大概能坐6-7个人，船在行驶中，可以要求船夫帮忙把船停在岩壁边，直接爬山岩壁近距离欣赏大自然的画卷。总体而言，碛口还是山西很值得去的景区，没有门票，吃住便宜，推荐！

The town of Qikou is cute, very small but has personality. There is not much to see, except from a temple, there is people waiting to guide you once you leave the bus that want money to show you around, just keep walking or cross the bridge and walk to the right with the river on your right if you are looking for Lijianshan, or better, pay some yuans to some motorbike guy to take you there, they are not cheap, but use your skills since its a long walk.Lijiashan is perfect, so go there, is nice, walk on the way back from the mountain and enjoy the views, if you are moving by bus you will have to leave early if you plan to catch the bus connection to Pingyao.Be careful, there is no working or useful banks in Qikou, so there is no way to cash out, there is a branch there and some signs, but the walk is long and once there the ATM didnt work, since it was not one of international banks. There is obviously no ATMs in Lijiashan neither.

This is the Lijiashan you have been reading about. It is a 550 year old village and everyone there either has the surname Li, or is relative with one. Tucked away from the rest of China, other than occasional group of Chinese tourists dropping by for day trip, you pretty much get to enjoy it raw. It's a 5/6-hour (long-distance) bus ride from Taiyuan to Qikou and from there you can pay for a (very skilled) private taxi to drive you to the doorstep of your homestay family. We stayed with Mr Li HP 138 3583 2614, for about 50yuan per person per night, 3 meals inclusive. At the time of our stay, they were installing a western shower toilet so we are expecting things to get more convenient by the time you go. But we loved it the way it is, naturally cool room in summer, underground natural fridge for storage of drinks and vegetable, rock bed with thin mattress and traditional homemade Shaanxi noodle by the Mrs Li.

One hundred years ago this town on the Yellow River in Shanxi Province was a trading post. Goods coming by river from the west had to be off loaded here because the water was too shallow for boats to pass. From Qikou, everything was loaded on to Camel trains. Now the town is being revived as a tourist destination by locals bringing the old hotels back to life. Signs along the intricate alleyways provide an insight into the past life of the town as you wind though alleys up to a temple over looking the river. We stayed in one of the large quadrangle “cave hotels” which are carved into the slope of the hills. An excellent dinner was served by the proprietor wearing his Mao army coat, in a dining room with walls covered in historical Red China posters. The beautiful lattice windows in the bedroom covered in tissue paper completed the romantic picture for me. You could spend a few days in this area, exploring nearby hillside villages. One built for the women of the wealthy merchants and a few kms away the Lijia village attracts many artists. We travelled with Beijing private tour guide, Peter Zhao iampeter518@foxmail.com, highly recommended for extended tours, however it is possible to take a local bus from Taiyuan or Xian.

The actual name of what everyone is talking about here is Lijiashan or Li Family Mountain. It is a small village approximately 10 kilometers downriver from Qikou Village. It can only be reached by a private car or on foot. It is well worth the visit!